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How to use a hair waver

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A hair waver, often a three barrel waver, presses hair into an S shaped pattern for the crimped, mermaid wave look. Unlike a wand, there is no wrapping, so it is quick to learn. The skill is in keeping the waves lined up as you work down the hair, so there are no gaps or doubled waves. This guide explains how wavers work and walks through the method for long and short hair, along with safety tips.

How hair wavers work

Most wavers have heated barrels on one side and matching grooves or barrels on the other. When you clamp a section, the hair is pressed into a wave pattern, and the heat sets it as it cools. Three barrel wavers make deep, uniform waves; deep wavers with wider barrels make broader, beachier waves, and mini wavers make a tight crimp.

Barrel diameter and spacing decide the wave size. Larger barrels give looser waves, smaller barrels give tighter ones. Like other hot tools, wavers can be fixed temperature or adjustable. Use the lowest setting that holds the wave on your hair.

Before you start

Hair should be clean, fully dry and brushed smooth. Wavers work best on straight or lightly straightened hair, so if your hair is naturally curly or frizzy, straighten or blow dry it smooth first for the cleanest pattern. Apply a heat protection product and let it dry. Section the hair with clips.

  • Hair waver and heat glove if supplied
  • Heat protection product
  • Sectioning clips and a paddle brush
  • Light hairspray to finish

Step by step: mermaid waves from root to tip

The overlap in step 4 is the key to even waves. If you move too far, you get a flat gap; too little and you get a doubled kink. Look in the mirror for the first few clamps until you get a rhythm.

  1. 1

    Take a section about as wide as the waver and comb it smooth.

  2. 2

    Place the waver near the root, clear of the scalp, with the barrels horizontal.

  3. 3

    Clamp for a few seconds, then open.

  4. 4

    Move the waver down so its top barrel sits in the lowest groove of the wave you just made.

  5. 5

    Clamp again, release and repeat down to the ends.

  6. 6

    Move to the next section, starting at the same height as the first so the waves line up across the head.

  7. 7

    When finished and cool, shake out with your fingers or brush gently for softer, fuller waves.

  8. 8

    Set with a light hairspray if you want extra hold.

Long hair, short hair and textured looks

On long hair, the waves can drop under their own weight, so use slightly smaller sections and let them cool fully before touching. Working in layers helps keep the pattern aligned from front to back.

On short hair, such as a long bob, start a little lower down the section to avoid lift at the root, and keep sections small. Very short hair may only take one or two clamps per section. For a lived in look on any length, wave only the mid lengths and ends, and leave the top straight.

If you prefer curls to waves, a wand or tongs gives a rounder shape. Our curling wand vs tongs comparison explains each, and the best curling wands and tongs guide lists premium options.

See premium curling tools →

Common mistakes

You can also make softer, brushed waves with straighteners using a twist and glide; see our guide on curling hair with straighteners and the best straighteners for curling.

  • Gaps between waves: overlap the top barrel with the last groove.
  • Kinks at the root: start slightly lower and keep the waver clear of the scalp.
  • Waves dropping: use smaller sections and let them cool fully.
  • Frizzy pattern: start from smooth, dry hair.
  • Uneven sides: start each section at the same height.

Safety with a hair waver

Wavers have large hot surfaces close to your head. Keep them away from your forehead, ears and neck, wear the heat glove if one is supplied and rest the waver on a heat mat between sections. Unplug after use and let it cool before storing.

Note:Hot barrels can burn skin instantly. Keep the waver away from water and children, and follow the safety instructions in your manual.

Frequently asked questions

How long should I hold a hair waver? Usually a few seconds per clamp. Start short and add a little time only if the waves do not hold.

Do hair wavers work on short hair? Yes, on bobs and lobs. Use small sections and start a little below the root.

Should I use a waver on curly hair? For the cleanest pattern, smooth curly hair first by blow drying or straightening, then wave.

What is the difference between a waver and a crimper? A crimper makes small zigzags; a waver makes larger, rounded S waves.

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