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How to curl long hair so it holds

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In short

Use a 25 to 38 mm barrel, ideally a long one, on fully dry hair with heat protection. Work in small sections of about 2 to 3 cm so the heat reaches the middle of each one, wrap without overlapping the hair on itself and hold for a few seconds longer than you would on short hair. Let each curl cool, ideally pinned up in a loop, before brushing out. Weight is what drops curls on long hair, so cooling time and small sections matter most.

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Long hair is lovely curled, but it is also the hardest length to keep curls in. The weight of the lengths pulls curls straight, thick sections do not heat through, and long sections overlap on a short barrel. The good news is that most of the problems are technique, not tools. This guide covers barrel size and length, sectioning, how to wrap long sections, setting curls so they last and the finish that keeps them in place.

Pick a barrel that suits long hair

For long hair, 25 mm gives defined curls that relax into waves, 32 mm gives classic loose curls and 38 mm gives big, soft waves. A long barrel matters as much as the diameter: if a section has to wrap over itself because the barrel is short, the outer layers stay cooler and curls set unevenly. Our explainer on what size curling wand to get has a size chart, and tapered vs regular wands compares shapes.

Tongs work on long hair but can struggle to hold all the length; many people use tongs like a wand on long hair, wrapping around the closed barrel. ghd's Chronos Curve Max Wand, for example, uses a 38 mm barrel aimed at long and very long hair.

13 mm½ intight19 mm¾ indefined25 mm1 inclassic32 mm1¼ inloose38 mm1½ inwaves
Common barrel sizes in mm with inches, and the curl each typically gives.

Step by step

Start with clean, completely dry hair. Apply a heat protectant and, if your hair is slippery, a light texture or setting spray. Section the hair into three layers: the nape, the middle and the crown, and clip the upper layers away.

  1. 1

    Take a section about 2 to 3 cm wide from the lowest layer.

  2. 2

    Hold the wand pointing down, wearing the heat glove.

  3. 3

    Wrap the section around the barrel in a spiral, moving down the barrel so the hair does not stack on itself.

  4. 4

    Leave the ends out for waves, or wrap them in for full curls.

  5. 5

    Hold for about 8 to 12 seconds, depending on thickness and the tool's heat.

  6. 6

    Slide the curl off into your palm and pin it in a loop against your head with a clip, or let it hang without touching it.

  7. 7

    Repeat through each layer, alternating direction at the back.

  8. 8

    When every curl is cool, unpin and break them up with fingers or a wide tooth comb.

Why curls drop on long hair

Hair sets its new shape as it cools. On long hair, the weight of the lengths starts pulling the curl straight while it is still warm, so curls that look great at first can relax within an hour. Pinning each curl in a loop while it cools takes the weight off and is the single most useful trick for long hair.

Other causes are sections that are too thick to heat through, clean hair that is very soft and slippery, heavy conditioners or oils on the lengths and humidity. Fix them with smaller sections, a texture spray before curling, lighter products and a flexible hairspray after.

  • Curls drop within an hour: pin to cool, use smaller sections.
  • Curls uneven: wrap in a spiral without overlapping.
  • Ends frizzy: use heat protection and do not hold the ends longer than the rest.
  • Curls too tight at first: brush out once cool; they relax on long hair.

Straighteners and air stylers on long hair

Straighteners with rounded edges curl long hair well, and wide plate models cover more length per pass. Our guide on how to curl hair with straighteners explains the twist, and the best straighteners for curling lists models that suit it.

Air stylers such as the Dyson Airwrap curl long hair at lower heat, but curls may drop faster on long, heavy hair; see curling wand vs Dyson Airwrap. For beachy, undone styles, follow how to get beach waves.

Note:Long sections take longer to wrap, so your hand spends more time near the barrel. Wear the heat glove, rest the tool on its stand between sections and unplug it when you finish.

Choosing a curler for long hair

Look for a barrel long enough to wrap a full section without overlap, even heat along the whole barrel, a cool tip, a stand and a long swivel cord. Premium wands and tongs, including ghd's larger Chronos Curve barrels, are compared in our best curling wands and tongs guide. If your hair is also very thick, the best straighteners for thick hair covers wide plates that curl too.

See the best curling wands and tongs →

Frequently asked questions

What size curling wand is best for long hair? Usually 32 to 38 mm for loose curls and waves, or 25 mm for more defined curls that relax over the day.

How do I make curls last on long hair? Use small sections, pin each curl while it cools and finish with a flexible hairspray.

Should I curl long hair the day after washing? Many people find second-day hair holds better because it is less slippery. Very oily roots or heavy product can work against you, though.

Are tongs or a wand better for long hair? Either works. A long wand is quicker for loose waves; tongs give more uniform curls.

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