How to curl short hair with tongs or a wand

Choose the right tool and size

Barrel size controls curl size. On chin length bobs, 19 to 25 mm gives soft curls and waves. On very short or pixie cuts, 13 to 19 mm is often needed to get any curl at all. Our explainer on what size curling wand to get has a full size chart, and the barrel size converter helps with inch sizes.

Tongs are often easiest on short hair because the clamp grips the short ends that would slip off a wand. A narrow wand gives a more piecey, textured wave. Straighteners also work well on bobs for flat, modern bends, as in our guide on using straighteners on short hair.

• Bob or lob, soft waves: 25 mm wand or tongs, or straighteners.
• Bob, defined curls: 19 mm tongs.
• Pixie, texture: 13 mm wand or small tongs, or a mini straightener.
• Want to avoid heat near the scalp: tongs with a cool tip.

Step by step with tongs

Start with clean, completely dry hair and a heat protectant. Clip the top layer out of the way and start at the back.

1. 1

   Take a thin section about 2 cm wide.

2. 2

   Open the clamp and place the ends of the section between the barrel and clamp, or clamp mid length.

3. 3

   Roll the tongs up towards the root, stopping a few centimetres away from the scalp.

4. 4

   Hold for about 3 to 6 seconds, less on fine hair.

5. 5

   Open the clamp and slide the tongs out downwards without pulling.

6. 6

   Leave the curl to cool, then move to the next section.

7. 7

   Once all curls are cool, break them up with your fingers.

Using a wand on short hair

With a wand, keep the hair flat like a ribbon and wrap only once or twice around the barrel. Wear the heat glove and point the wand down. Wrap away from the face at the sides and in alternating directions at the back for a natural look. For a modern bob, leave the last 1 to 2 cm of the ends straight.

Short sections near the nape and around the ears bring the barrel close to skin. Bend the ear forward with your free hand and use very small sections. Our guide to using a curling wand without burning yourself has more safety tips.

Note:Barrels can burn skin instantly, and short hair puts them close to your scalp, ears and neck. Use the glove, start a few centimetres from the root and keep the tool on its stand between sections.

Making short curls look modern

Short curls look dated when every curl is identical and tightly set. Vary the direction, leave some pieces straight, especially around the face, and shake out the curls once cool. A small amount of texture spray or paste worked through with your fingers adds separation.

If curls drop fast, take smaller sections, hold a little longer and let them cool fully before touching. On very fine hair, a light texture spray before curling helps grip. Avoid heavy creams on the lengths, which weigh short curls down.

Choosing premium tools

Look for a small barrel, a cool tip, a stand and a swivel cord. ghd's Curve range includes small barrels such as the 14 mm Classic Wave Wand and the 26 mm Classic Tong, both compared in our best curling wands and tongs guide. If you would rather have one tool for straight and curly days, straighteners with rounded edges are a good fit for short hair; see the best straighteners for curling.

See the best curling wands and tongs →

Frequently asked questions

Is a curling wand or tongs better for short hair? Tongs are usually easier because the clamp holds short ends. A narrow wand suits textured waves.

What size barrel for a bob? 19 to 25 mm for most bobs. Go smaller for tighter curls or very short cuts.

Can you curl a pixie cut? Yes, with a small barrel of about 13 mm or mini straighteners, using tiny sections for texture.

How do I stop curls looking too tight on short hair? Use slightly bigger sections, leave the ends out and break curls up once cool.